THREE OF A KIND
Sydney Morning Herald
Tuesday March 8, 2011
It was only a matter of time before we got tired of floury, tasteless tomatoes, which are bred for pest and bruise resistance and a long shelf life. Along with an interest in slow food and biodiversity has come the rediscovery of old varieties of fruit and vegetables, admired for their sometimes quirky, rather than classical, good looks and intense flavours. Because heirloom or heritage tomatoes are pollinated naturally, by birds, wind and insects, there's no control over the parent crop so there's always an element of surprise with each new generation. When nobody's sure who the father is, who knows what to expect?1. Bar HThe curved room clings to a corner just up from Central, its steel-blue-and-black colour scheme lending a moody look, even by day. In the tomatoes, it's fun to compare the tang of the green zebras with sweet oxhearts, meaty black russians and buttery aurora yellows in a salad topped with house-made ricotta ($16). The mild cheese transforms this into a comforting dish, its milky juices mingling with the aged balsamic and olive oil dressing. Oregano leaves, scattered liberally, are almost numbingly pungent but are easily dodged if they become a bit much.2. The London BistroTucked in the back of this sandstone-brick pub lies a dining room, all heritage greens and creams. Wood is dark and varnished and light fittings brass but the presentation of the heirloom tomato salad with buffalo mozzarella ($12) is modern. Chunks obliquely lopped help the black russian tomato variety, yellow romas and oxhearts stand at interesting angles, while a sticky balsamic reduction smeared underneath provides traction. Mild vinaigrette allows the fruit to shine.3. The Eathouse DinerThe mint-green-and-red decor is as vibrant as the tomatoes we're here to try. It's a buzzy, casual spot with a 1950s look right down to the cabinet of kitsch collectables. For his salad of rare beef with lentils and heirloom tomatoes ($25), chef Age Durrant uses a mix, including cherry and golden grape not strictly heirloom and oxheart. They form a sweet, colourful bed for the well-rested beef tenderloin but the balsamic vinegar in the dressing overwhelms any subtle differences in the fruit. Green lentils are cooked perfectly and there's brightness from oregano and sliced eschalots. Bar H, 80 Campbell Street, Surry Hills, 9280 1980 The London Bistro, 234 Darling Street, Balmain, 9555 1377 The Eathouse Diner, 306 Chalmers Street, Redfern, 8084 9479
© 2011 Sydney Morning Herald